PULSE AUTOCYCLE NETWORK

[Erick]

Had a weird thing happen. I haven't had the pulse out for a drive for a few months. So I charged up the battery and took it out. Ran really good for about ten minutes. I pulled over into a parking lot because some kids wanted a picture. After all the pictures, I got in and turned the key. The engine started up and then died right away. I turned the key again but nothing happened. The instrument panel acted like there was no power. I always keep jumper cables in the pulse and I got a jump from the kids. When the jumper cables were attached, the instruments panel worked like they are supposed to.

I made it home with no problems except the voltage gauge showed 15 volts. I thought this was a little high. Tried to start the engine but the instrument panel showed no power. I put the charger on the battery again and let it charge. After about an hour, I tried the engine again but the panel showed no power. Thinking it was a bad battery, I took it in and had it tested. Battery tested okay but I went ahead and bought another battery. Put the new battery in and cleaned up the connectors. Turned the key again but no power.

I'm thinking I could have a bad solenoid or a rectifier. Any other ideas? Does anyone know how to test a solenoid?

[DMD1]

corrosion on fuses possible. If You jump other side of solenoid and starter turns. And if you use key and it goes click and does not turn starter solenoid is bad.

[Bob Hichborn]

Erick,

So, you can jump it from another vehicle, but it won't start with a new battery... is that correct? When you're jumping it, where are you hooking up the jumper cables on your Pulse, to the Pulse battery terminals? Also, what engine do you have in your Pulse?

- Bob
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"

[Erick]

I still have the 400 engine. I have two extended terminal by the back, right side door. The positive is connected to the solenoid and battery, while the negative is connected to the frame.

I think the solenoid was just starting to go bad when I first jumped it. Tried to jump again since I got home and there are no power to the guages. The parts shop wasn't opened yesterday but I'm going to replace the solenoid first.

[Erick]

The solenoid tested bad, so I checked out a replacement. A new one will cost $150. That can't be right. I'll be checking out some used ones. Anyone know a place where I can find one?

Guess this is to be expected to find parts for a 25 year engine. Need to start planning to upgrade the power source.

[Erick]

I'm going to get a used solenoid from a local used bike shop here in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Should have it by Tuesday or Wednesday. Only going to cost $25. That's more like it.

[Erick]

Well, the replacement solenoid didn't work. Still no power to guages and I hear a click when I turn the ignition switch.

I'm going to try a new ignition switch. If that doesn't work, I'll have to go through the 25 year old electronics and check for any loose/broken connections.

[Erick]

What would be the best way to test the starter? Maybe I have a bad starter.

[elden simons]

Until someone chimes in, heres a thought or two.
If your starter is still installed, then somehow make some sort of lead wire from the battery's positive post and maybe with an aligator clip on that wire, manually make contact with the positive connector of the starter.
If the starter is disconnected from the vehicle/motor, then still use a battery and use two wires, but connect the positive first, then the negative (am I getting that backwards?).

I do hope that the shift selection is in neutral and the rear wheel is blocked.
Is there a Neutral start switch?
Anyone know? Does the clutch pedal have to be depressed?

[Bob Cervero]

I would be checking where the ground cable is connected to the frame. Make sure that's clean. That's easy to do.
If that's OK clip a volt meter to the positive solenoid terminal and to the frame. Have someone turn the key to start and see if 12 volts are being sent to the solenoid when the key is turned.

[Bob Hichborn]

I have a Honda GL1100 power plant, so it may be wired different then your 400, but I believe most older start switches operate similarly. My starter switch is a standard 3 postiion type; off, on, and start. If I'm not mistaken when you turn the key to ON your gauges should light up, just like in a car your accessories turn on. Power at this position shouldn't be effected by whether you have a good starter/starter solenoid or not. You should still get power. Now, on the Goldwing there is a relay by the battery which could prevent battery power from making it to your gauges. If the starter is "clicking", then you're getting something.

You might be able to find a wiring diagram online. I did a quick search and found this one for a 1980 400.

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/7141-1980-yamaha-400-special-wiring-diag/

Hope this helps.

- Bob
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"

[hatfield]

Mine did this exact same thing before I put in my new dash. I looked forever starting with the same parts your talking about. Took off the dash cover, put the kuy on with the heater fan otor on so I could here something. It ended up being a big white wire connector on the left side back side of the dash. When ipicked it up and wiggled, everything turned on but when I let go again, it shut back off. I'd bet you have a wiring connection problem.
_________________
Pete Hatfield
Muscatine, IA
www.petehatfield.com

[Erick]

I finally found the problem. I feel like an idiot but I found it. I found a cable coming out of the engine, next to the kick starter, was not connected to the battery ground. This cable came up from the engine and was "resting" underneath the battery. Once I fixed this, the dash lights came on and started right away.

This is what happened. When I first charged up the battery, I removed it and set it in the middle of the garage. I then re-installed the battery but this cable slipped down and I didn't see it. Since the battery base is metal and dirty, I was getting a poor ground. It was good enough for the initial drive and jump but probably shifted and I wasn't getting a ground anymore. At first glanced, this cable looked like it was with the other four cables connected to the ground of the battery. A closer inspection showed the cable going down.

I really appreciate the advice everyone gave. It was a ground issue but it took me a while to find it. Thanks again.

[StillWishing]

Glad you found the problem and it wasn't more serious.
_________________
---Bob---

Waiting for my dream to come true