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Engine/Body Removal

 
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Carl McCullough
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 9:36 am    Post subject: Engine/Body Removal Reply with quote

I have #333 and want to take the rear section with the engine out of the body. Has anyone documented this procedure? I have a Honda GL1100 with air and have taken the rear body off but I am not sure what is needed to pull engine and drivetrain from front body and outrigger section.

Any information is appreciated.
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gregorkeller



Joined: 07 Sep 2003
Posts: 18
Location: Rio Nido, Calif

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 1:19 am    Post subject: engine removal Reply with quote

Very Happy Hello
I have rear body section off at this time. Just pulled rear seat backing out and am amazed at how this thing was put together let alone how the %&%$ one gets the engine and rear frame away from rest of vehicle. The Pulse should be on the program [How did they do That}.
I thought I would have to pull engine but just turned her over with starter and no plugs in except for the one stuck under air conditioning compressor. Is yours set up similar?
cheers Greg
This could drive a guy to drink
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Carl McCullough
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 10:23 am    Post subject: Engine Removal Reply with quote

Mine has the air conditioner above the engine behind the rear seat. I want to pull engine and frame out to get to the valve covers to make adjustments as well as a multitude of other things.
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Dave Bauer
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 10:32 am    Post subject: Pulling a GL engine from a Pulse Reply with quote

Carl,
They didn't make it easy to do. You should be able to access all of the fasterners holding the front and back half of your machine together by pulling the rear seat out. You'll have to pull the side panels first, then the rear seat. Clearances are tight between the engine and the body due to the taper of the rear bodywork. You may have to lift the rear chassis out of the body rather than pulling it astern. From there, its much like working on a Goldwing.

Send me an email at debauer1@cox.net and we'll talk.

FYI, I installed a GL1000 into mine.
-Dave Bauer
Pulse 167
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Guest






PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 9:11 pm    Post subject: engine removal Reply with quote

Hi I have had our 1100 out several times. The first time it took about 16 hours, now I can do it in about 4 hours. I first remove the canopy then back seat, rear fiberglass top and bottom section. Now you can see what you are up against. Of course I have one advanatge I put it on my car hoist it makes it much easier to get to the bottom things to disconnect. There are two large bolts on the bottom frame, two smaller bolts on left side, and two on the top frame. I then suport the engine with a cherry picker and raise and pull back at the same time, you may have to flex the fiberglass out it is a tight fit. Don't get discouraged just take your time it will come out.
Chuck Smile
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gregorkeller



Joined: 07 Sep 2003
Posts: 18
Location: Rio Nido, Calif

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Chuck
Thank you much for the info. When I first took off the rear panels and looked at how this puppy was put together I was more than a bit discouraged. After removing the rear seat I just scratched my head. With the 1200cc it sure is a tight fit. With 6000 miles hope it will be awhile before I need tackle complete removal.
Next job is to remove air conditioning pump to get to last plug.
Pulse#345 Cheers Gregor
p.s. Does anyone have any pics to post showing removal?
I will post shot of Red Rocket soon once I get ahold of a digital cam Very Happy
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Carl McCullough
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2003 12:57 pm    Post subject: Engine Removal Reply with quote

Chuck or anyone else who may know.

I have taken the two large bolts out that were attached to the frame. These can be seen below the alternator and to the right and left. Mine also has two bolts on either side of the vertical supports. You can see the holes as I have already taken them out. There is one bolt that is attached to the alternator support that comes out also.

My problem seems to be the last two pictures which shows the under side of the engine both right and left sides which have bolts attached to frame supports that are then welded to the main frame support. I have taken the nuts off but cannot see if this is a bolt that goes thru the bottom of the engine or what? These seem to be all that is keeping the engine and frame from coming loose from the chassis. Any ideas. I cannot seem to insert the pics so if you would like to see email me at clm0825@aol.com and I will send them to you.

Thanks in advance
Carl
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Chuck Furgason



Joined: 26 Aug 2003
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the large bolts mine were welded to the frame also. I think they did this to hold them in place. I ground the weld off and used new bolts with lock washers. I had to take these bolts out to remove the engine, you can not lift the engine cradle up because of the top frame, and you can not pull stright back with the two big bolts in place. They have to be removed.
Chuck Furgason
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Carl McCullough
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2003 10:59 pm    Post subject: Engine Removal Reply with quote

Chuck,

Thanks for the reply.

I got the two large bolts out ok but it is the "pass through bolt" , which is an orginial gl1100 part on the bottom of the frame and on the bottom front part of the engine that I am having problems with. I got the two end nuts off but cannot get it to slide out in any direction. In fact it will not move at all. Since it passes through the bottom front of the engine I am very nervous about hammering it from either end. Did yours come out easily. If you do not know what I am talking about send me your email and I will send you a picture.

Thanks again.
Carl
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Guest






PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Removal Reply with quote

Carl,
That long bolt that you are describing is indeed the main bolt holding the engine into the original frame. It will come out with care, but don't pull it out now because you will bind the engine in the frame and make it very difficult to remove. Wait until you have the entire frame removed from the Pulse body and then place the engine on a set of blocks to support it. Once you've done this, you can use a long punch to push the bolt out one side of the GW frame. You will find that there are 6 more bolts holding your engine into the GW frame.

You'll have to disconnect the drive shaft from the engine before removing the engine from the frame. Once you have everything disconnected from the engine and the frame is securely supported, remove the four bolts holding the left side of the frame together and remove the detachable frame section. The engine should slide easily out to the left.

I recommend that you pick up a Goldwing service manual to assist in your task. You may be able to find a factory manual (the best) but they are hard to find. Otherwise, try Chilton's. As another option, I could send you copies of the appropriate pages from my manual. (I've owned 3 Goldwings myself.)
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Carl McCullough
Guest





PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 10:19 am    Post subject: Engine Removal Reply with quote

Thanks to "Guest" for the information.

The problem is that when they built the Pulse, at least mine, they welded two square support arms from the main Pulse frame and on each end welded another flat piece with a hole drilled through it which then is on the outside of the GW frame and the pass through bolt is through the engine, GW frame and then new support piece with nuts on the end. I can remove the nuts but I cannot push out the pass through bolt and if I cannot take out the pass through bolt I will have to cut the support arms, which I do not want to do. I can bend slightly the support arms where they slide back and forth on each end of the pass through bolt, but not far enough to slide it over the ends of the pass through bolt, so the support arms are not binding the pass through bolt. However again the pass trough bolt will not move. I even tried adding washers at on end and would tighten a nuts only on one end to try and "back out" the bolt but still no movement. Is it possible that the pass through bolt has rusted to the GW frame or engine casing so tight that it would not move? I have been using half a can of penetrating oil to free it but nothing yet.

Based on the diagram of the frame of the GW the "pass through bolt" looks like it is one solid bolt that goes all the way through. Is this correct? Could the bolts be two different that screw into the sides of the lower engine?

Carl
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Dave Bauer
Guest





PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:57 am    Post subject: GL1200 Engine Removal Reply with quote

Carl,
Sorry, my name did not post on my previous entry. Not sure why.

I am assuming that you are speaking of the long bolt underneath the forward part of the engine just aft of the oil filter. All GL 4-cyclinder engines have the pass-thru bolt design. This is a feature that acutally helps to hold the frame together since the frame is designed with a removable section so the engine can be pulled out the left side. No GL used separate bolts on each side.

It is possible that the guys at OMCC replaced the corrosion resistant pass thru bolt with a longer steel one. The original was solid and threaded only on the ends. They may have replaced it with a steel one that is threaded its whole length. Your engine is cast aluminum, so rusting the bolt to the block is not possible. However, the bolt itself may have corroded itself tightly into its hole. WD-40 or other pentrating solvents will not soak deep enough to do any good.

Without seeing your exact set-up, as each install is slightly different, I see that you have a few choices. Remove the exhaust system, if you haven't already.

1. Put two nuts on one end of the pass thru bolt and counter lock them. Then use a wrench to turn them to see if the bolt will rotate. If the bolt rotates, it will come out. Run the nuts out to the end of the bolt to protect the threads and then use a 1 or 2 pound sledge hammer to pound the bolt through. Use a long punch that is the same diameter as the pass thru bolt to push the bolt through the engine once one end of the bolt is no longer exposed.

2. If this doesn't work, you may want to consider cutting the tabs that you mentioned. You can have them welded back on later. Once the engine is removed, you'll have more room to work on the pass thru bolt.

3. Another option would be to cut the pass thru bolt just inside of each tab. You can free up and replace the bolt after the engine is out.

If I'm right about the bolt, I'd replace it with a new one that won't rust. You can get one at almost any fastener supply center.

-Dave Bauer
Pulse 167, 78 GoldWing (x2), 01 GoldWing
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