PULSE AUTOCYCLE NETWORK

[elden simons]

*This is my second attempt...some how it became an entirely seperate Topic...had to delete

Bob, The so-called 'Diaper' on the Pulse has occassionally been a problem. The body piece above the exhaust pipes/below the tail light.
Maybe it was only because the piece attached to the above, larger body piece that it seemed more prone to vibrate and the screws loosen

Next, is the nose. Are you locating the battery up there?
Well, thanks to the air shocks on #308, the bottom of the nose cracked due to the non-cushioning of those shocks.

Then is this thought: In consideration that if this is a prototype for additional copies. Would there be a need to reinforce the top of the back body shell?
I'm thinking that the would-be buyer may consider affixing an 'after-market' vertical tail. So, with this in mind,the reinforcement would coincide with a pre-engineered tail that is premade for after market purchase and proper for the weight allowed on the body shell that the owner can readily get.

[Bob Hichborn]

For those of you that can jump in your Pulse and drive it around the block... I just completed a new fuselage, but purposely reduced the thickness of the glass to reduce weight. Before I test mount it onto the frame, I'm curious if anyone has found that there is any amount of fiberglass "flapping" during normal driving conditions.

I'm definitely going to go back and add more layers of glass to strengthen particular areas, but in general I've reduced the body weight to where I can easily move it by myself from previously being a rather tough job for 2 to lug around.

I'm hoping that as I integrate the bulkhead pieces that the overall figidity will improve.

- Bob
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"

[Bob Hichborn]

When you get in and out of the Pulse, do you:
- Stand on the outriggers?
- Stand on the fiberglass "floor" or seats or center pipe?
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"

[elden simons]

So, Bob wants to know people's habits when entering the GCRV.

I step on the stabilizer mounts that are integrated to the vehicle body. The area that usually has the non-slip tape on it. It never fails where someone doesn't get the idea of why the tape is affixed there. One should not step on the semi-hinged stabilizer.

Both the driver and passenger will typicly need to step on the center pipe when entering. Yet, I don't doubt that there are operators who can step right on in and onto the primary, fiberglass floor.
It is all in the angle of one's body when entering.

Exiting is another matter. Personally, I don't miss the sound of the fiberglass "crunch" noise as I stood on the primary floor so to manage my balance for stepping out onto the stabilizer mount.
The passenger may step on the pipe again so to get a little height for straddling the vehicle's sides and onto the stabilizer mount.
I was rarely (very rarely) a passenger. My wife is verticaly challenged so she also squishes the driver's seat when she had to climb out.

[hatfield]

I also step on the friction tape and then I try to step on the center pipe but many times I find myself stepping on the seat.
_________________
Pete Hatfield
Muscatine, IA
www.petehatfield.com

[steveg]

Im currently building a NEW body for a HMV freeway that was totaled in an accident. not wanting the usuall body I opted to streamline it more to look like the litestar.. getting the body to shape using foamboard (ureathane 1/2 inch) and three layers of 'glass on the top and two underneath this body is much stiffer than the litestar and lighter in weight..

i hapen to come across a roll of s 'glass whish is fine as silk and over 1800 ft on the roll 4 ft wide.. so I have plenty to play with and then some!

so far the projects on the list are few, but probably by winter the list will grow..

Ureathane foam cores are extremely strong and easy to shape and 'glass over something to consider when making rudders, wings, scoops or repairs..
steveg.
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steve george litestar #009
otisco NY

[Bob Hichborn]

Steve,

Is the foam board that you're using open (ie not covered) or does it have some kind of paper or reflective backing? Also is it the urethane board that melts when using fiberglass resin?

- Bob
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"

[steveg]

Bob (and anyone else interested) like disolves like.. that is if you are using fiberglass resin which has STYRENE in it it will disolve STYROFOAM (i learned this a long time ago) most resins will NOT attack ureathanes..
the foamboard I used is the common Lowes or home depot stuff 1/2 inch or 5/8ths with plastic on either side or plastic/foil outside.. which you must peel off carefully.. tough to do.. the plastic is easy and simple, the foil not so and wil cut you if you have tender hands..LOL
for forming I found using steamer for walpaper (from a garage sale) works nice. lay the board over a form thats not too complicated and steam it carefully.
if you want/need complicated shapes buy the thicker stuff, and shape it with a sander, grater, drill with wire wheel (wear protection eye,and nose)and sand, the lay up the 'glass.. for big projects like my body make sections that fit together, and 'glass each and fit together then 'glass agian over the entire unit making it uniform.
some fiberglass resins now have urethanes in them so be carefull.. if you HAVE to use styrofoam, cover it with sealant, 3 layers, paint, and release agent and test with a blob of resin.. have fun!
_________________
steve george litestar #009
otisco NY