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Steering Column

 
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AcftEngr



Joined: 30 Apr 2008
Posts: 10
Location: GA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:51 am    Post subject: Steering Column Reply with quote

I seem to remember reading something about replacing a bushing on the front end of the Pulse. The story was to replace with bronze or something else??

I had assumed it was in the steering column but have totally disassembled the front end in preparation for rebuilding.....the only bushings are the ones on the swing arm. My Pulse has tapered roller bearings on the top and bottom of the steering column. The swing arm bushings have a layer of rubber that is possibly there for damping?

Does anyone know of the article/post that cited the replacement of the bushings on the front end?

As a side issue, the lower bolt on the steering column was lose....there is much damage due to this bolt being lose. If this bolt fails.....you will eat dirt! I believe it is underdesigned....and will probably build a new solid post (versus tube) with a much larger post for the lower end (similar to the top). The bolt should also be safety wired to prevent the condition that I found mine!!! My suggestion is to chech the security of this bolt immediately....by torqueing....you should be able to detect crackingin the threads!
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Bob Hichborn



Joined: 12 Feb 2004
Posts: 404
Location: Orlando, Fl

PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've replaced the front bushings with Oilite pressed in bushings which seem to be working out fine. Yes, the original ones appeared to have a rubber sleeve, which possibly may have isolated some road noise from running up the front suspension, but the noise from the outriggers is far more apparent then anything the rubber bushings would remove up front.

If you've completely removed the steering throat, then you've had a chance to examnie undoubtedly the weakest part of the Pulse. The 2 stubs shafts that hold the entire front end on and support the weight of the driver and forward section of the vehicle is supported by about 6 to 8 threads (3 to 4 on top and bottom) in the 2 "triple tree" plates. Not sure why they went with this design knowing that the straight shaft design that's been used in motorcycles and bicycles has stood the test of time, but that's what they did. It may have been to make removing the front suspension easier. Who knows?

You can weld the throat to the goose neck and double up those 2 plates to give more threads for the stubs to grab into, or just do it the right way and fab or purchase a throat and shaft. I've found a variety of these on line. They are used in the custom chopper and trike industry.

Hope this helps a bit.

Bob
_________________
"Everyday you wake up with a Pulse,
is a good day!"
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